Croatia Road Trip

The Upper Lakes have the most dramatic waterfalls and deepest colors. Start at Entrance 1 and take Route H (the longest, 4-6 hours for the full circuit). The boardwalks wind directly over turquoise water. The Veliki Slap (Great Waterfall) at 78 meters is the park's crown jewel. Arrive before 8am in summer or the boardwalks become uncomfortably crowded.

The Lower Lakes are smaller but the colors are more intense. The water shifts between emerald green and deep turquoise depending on the mineral content and sunlight angle. A free boat crosses Kozjak Lake (the largest) connecting the Upper and Lower sections. Pack lunch because the in-park restaurants are overpriced and mediocre.

Walk down from Entrance 1 to the base of Croatia's tallest waterfall. The mist spray on a sunny day creates rainbows. This is the most photographed spot in the park and gets crowded by mid-morning. It is also the most accessible for visitors with limited mobility.

A Roman emperor's retirement palace built in the 4th century, now the living heart of Split. People live, work, and eat inside the palace walls. The Peristyle (central courtyard) hosts concerts in summer. The underground cellars are remarkably preserved. The Cathedral of St. Domnius was originally the emperor's mausoleum. Free to walk through; small fees for cellars and bell tower.

A forested peninsula on Split's western edge with hiking trails, cliff-top viewpoints, and hidden swimming coves. The climb to the Telegrin summit (178m) takes 30 minutes and gives you 360-degree views of Split, the islands, and the mountains. Kasjuni Beach at the base of Marjan is one of the best in the city.

Split's marble waterfront promenade is where everyone gathers at sunset. The palm-lined boulevard faces the harbor with views of the islands. Grab a coffee or cocktail at one of the terrace bars and watch the ferries come and go. This is the social center of Split and the perfect spot for people-watching.

The main city beach is a 5-minute walk from the old town. Shallow, sandy, and packed with locals playing picigin (a traditional ball game played in knee-deep water). The beach clubs have music and cocktails all day in summer. It is not a pristine hidden cove, but it is the most fun beach in Split.

The main square (St. Stephen's Square) is the largest piazza in Dalmatia. Climb to the Spanish Fortress above town for panoramic views of the harbor and Pakleni Islands. The climb takes 20 minutes and is worth every step. Hvar Town has a reputation as a party island, but the historic core is genuinely beautiful and much older than the nightlife suggests.

A chain of small islands just offshore from Hvar Town, reachable by water taxi ($10-15 round trip). Palmizana has a gorgeous art colony, restaurant, and pine-shaded beaches. Marinkovac has the most popular swimming spots. Rent a small boat ($100-150/day, no license needed for under 5HP) and island-hop at your own pace.

Rent a scooter ($30/day) and ride into Hvar's interior to see the lavender fields that bloom in June and July. The fortified villages of Velo Grablje and Humac are mostly abandoned but hauntingly photogenic. Konoba Humac restaurant in the stone village serves lamb peka cooked in a centuries-old stone house.

A pebble beach in a sheltered cove about 8 km east of Hvar Town. Park at the top and walk 15 minutes down to the beach. There is a small stone house that rents sunbeds and serves drinks. The water is absurdly clear. Less crowded than the beaches near town and far more beautiful.

The 2 km circuit around Dubrovnik's medieval walls is the signature experience. The walls are up to 25 meters high and 6 meters thick. Walk counterclockwise for the best light and fewer bottlenecks. Go first thing in the morning (8am) or late afternoon to avoid both heat and crowds. The section above the old harbor gives you the classic postcard shot.

The Stradun is the main limestone-paved street. It is beautiful but touristy. Duck into the side alleys and steep staircases on either side to find empty churches, tiny galleries, and local bars. The Jesuit Staircase was a filming location for Game of Thrones. The Rector's Palace and Sponza Palace are the architectural highlights.

A 15-minute ferry from the old harbor ($10 round trip). A car-free island with a botanical garden, a Benedictine monastery, a small saltwater lake (the Dead Sea), and rocky swimming coves. Peacocks roam the grounds. The Fort Royal at the top has panoramic views of Dubrovnik's walls. Bring a towel and swimsuit.

Sea kayaking along the base of the city walls and to Lokrum Island is one of the best ways to see Dubrovnik from a unique angle. Multiple companies offer guided tours ($35-50) that include a swimming stop at Betina Cave beach. Morning tours have calmer water. No experience needed.

A bar carved into the cliffs on the outer side of the city walls. No sign outside, just a hole in the wall with 'Cold Drinks' written on it. Step through and you are on a cliff terrace with the open Adriatic stretching to the horizon. Drinks are overpriced but the setting is once-in-a-lifetime. Go 30 minutes before sunset to get a spot.